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Anmelden Setting sails on the rig A conversation with my brother the other day got me thinking about how the IOM rig should work. We both used to sail on dinghies and yachts. Mostly we would sail on fractional rig yachts where the bottom of the mast was controlled by the shrouds, spreaders and runners. The bend was fixed up to the hounds and you increased or decreased that bend, using the runner, however once set the mast was fairly rigid. The trick was to have the mast work for you above the hounds on the un-supported section of the fractional rig. The ideal scenario went like this. If you hit a gust the top of the mast head would bend, flattening the upper part of the mainsail and opening the leech so the boat could accelerate into the gust. As soon as the wind eased the mast would straighten and power was restored. We once sailed on a boat which had the balance of the rig exactly right. It meant you could carry more sail in greater breeze and gave a massive competitive advantage. The boat won a lot of key offshore and inshore races. However the IOM rig is between a fractional and a masthead rig on a yacht where the forestay and backstay meet at the top of the mast and the bend and therefore mainsail leech control is managed entirely through adjustment of the runners. Of course you have other adjustments on yachts which are important, eg mainsail foot, cunningham, etc, all of which have to be adjusted through the wind ranges, but in this article I am just focusing on mast bend and impact on the mainsail. The IOM rig is somewhere between a masthead and fractional rigged yacht. .Our forestay sits above the hounds with a backstay at the top of the mast. The geometry is set up so that with prebend build into the spar, straightened out by the backstay, tension is put into the luff and leech line of the headsail. The position of the jib swivel line to the deck ensures that most of that tension goes down the luff of the jib and not the leech line. Mast bend and therefore mainsail leech shape is controlled throughout the mast ram, spreader rake and tension on the backstay. Jib leech tension is controlled by the leech line. We want a rig setup that will give a little in puffs so the boat accelerates and drives, rather than heels and stall. So how can that be achieved. If you read all the key advice on rig setup, you tighten your shroud tension just enough to stop the leeward shroud going soft when upwind. This allows the mast to flex a little in puffs providing acceleration. If the mast is too rigid, airflow will stall and the boat will not accelerate in the puff. Start your boats setup with the boat pointing as though on a run. Trim the back stay so the mast is straight fore and aft. Set the mainsail foot to a depth of 15mm or whatever your sailplane suggests. Set up the kicker tension so the mainsail leech is slightly twisted with the top batten just outside parallel to the main boom. Check both gybes to make sure the mast is straight vertically. The twist should be the same on each gybe. Then point the boat as though on a beat. I assume you have set the rake as per the boat plan using a measuring stick or tape measure. Our goal is to set the mainsail so the top batten is parallel to the centreline of the boom by adjusting the backstay and mast ram. Once set up there should be little need for change through the wind ranges other than 1mm tweaks on the backstay. In a recent zoom meeting with Brad Gibson for the Central Park MYG in the US, Brad talked about adjusting the backstay by plus or minus 2mm. I don't know about you, but in the past I was slightly more aggressive about the use of the backstay. Now I understand more about the precision of the setup and know what the top guys do, I am more careful. With any luck if you have done all this you will have a perfect looking rig, and if you have not overdone the shroud tension, the rig will work for you in the gusts. There is enough information available on rig setup up on the web, that you should be able to achieve the right setting first time and more important, recreate that setting every time you go sailing. Here are some pictures to show the impact of 1 mm changes on the B rig backstay. Start from the bottom Segel setzen auf dem Rigg Ein Gespräch mit meinem Bruder hat mich neulich dazu gebracht, darüber nachzudenken, wie das IOM-Rig funktionieren sollte. Wir sind beide früher auf Jollen und Yachten gesegelt. Meistens segelten wir auf Fractional-Rig-Yachten, bei denen die Unterseite des Mastes von den Wanten, Spreizern und Läufern kontrolliert wurde. Die Biegung wurde bis zu den Hunden fixiert und Sie vergrößerten oder verkleinerten diese Biegung mit dem Läufer, aber sobald der Mast einmal eingestellt war, war er ziemlich steif. Der Trick bestand darin, den Mast für Sie über den Hunden auf dem nicht unterstützten Abschnitt des Bruchrigs arbeiten zu lassen. Das ideale Szenario sah so aus. Wenn Sie eine Böe treffen, würde sich die Spitze des Mastkopfes verbiegen, den oberen Teil des Großsegels platt drücken und das Achterliek öffnen, damit das Boot in die Böe beschleunigen kann. Sobald der Wind nachließ, richtete sich der Mast auf und die Stromversorgung wurde wiederhergestellt. Wir sind einmal auf einem Boot gesegelt, bei dem die Balance des Riggs genau stimmte. Es bedeutete, dass Sie bei stärkerer Brise mehr Segel tragen konnten und verschafften Ihnen einen massiven Wettbewerbsvorteil. Das Boot gewann viele wichtige Offshore- und Inshore-Rennen. Das IOM-Rigg liegt jedoch zwischen einem Fractional- und einem Masttop-Rigg auf einer Yacht, bei der das Vorstag und das Achterstag an der Spitze des Mastes und der Biegung zusammentreffen, und daher wird die Achterlieksteuerung des Großsegels vollständig durch die Einstellung der Kufen gesteuert. Natürlich gibt es auf Yachten andere wichtige Einstellungen, zB Großsegelfuß, Cunningham, etc, die alle über die Windbereiche angepasst werden müssen, aber in diesem Artikel konzentriere ich mich nur auf die Mastbiegung und den Aufprall auf das Großsegel. Das IOM-Rigg liegt irgendwo zwischen einer Mastspitze und einer fraktionierten Yacht. .Unser Vorstag sitzt über den Hunden mit einem Achterstag an der Spitze des Mastes. Die Geometrie ist so eingestellt, dass mit Prebend-Einbau in den Holm, begradigt durch das Achterstag, Spannung in die Vorlieks- und Achterlieklinie des Vorsegels gebracht wird. Die Position der Fockschwenkleine zum Deck stellt sicher, dass die meiste Spannung über das Vorliek der Fock und nicht über die Achterliek geht. Die Mastbiegung und damit die Achterliekform des Großsegels wird während des gesamten Mastkolbens, des Spreizwinkels und der Spannung am Achterstag kontrolliert. Die Spannung des Jib-Leechs wird durch die Leech-Leine kontrolliert. Wir wollen ein Rig-Setup, das ein wenig nachgibt, damit das Boot beschleunigt und fährt, anstatt Krängungen und Strömungsabrisse. Wie also kann das erreicht werden. Wenn Sie alle wichtigen Ratschläge zum Aufbau des Rigs gelesen haben, ziehen Sie die Wantenspannung gerade genug an, um zu verhindern, dass die Lee-Shroud bei Gegenwind weich wird. Dies ermöglicht es dem Mast, sich in Zügen ein wenig zu biegen, was für Beschleunigung sorgt. Wenn der Mast zu steif ist, kommt der Luftstrom zum Stillstand und das Boot beschleunigt nicht im Zug. Beginnen Sie Ihr Boot-Setup mit dem Boot, das wie auf einem Lauf zeigt. Trimmen Sie die hintere Strebe so, dass der Mast vorn und hinten gerade steht. Stellen Sie den Fuß des Großsegels auf eine Tiefe von 15 mm oder was auch immer Ihr Segelflugzeug vorschlägt. Stellen Sie die Kickerspannung so ein, dass das Achterliek des Großsegels leicht verdreht ist und die obere Latte etwas außerhalb parallel zum Großbaum liegt. Überprüfen Sie beide Halsen, um sicherzustellen, dass der Mast vertikal gerade steht. Die Drehung sollte bei jeder Halse gleich sein. Richten Sie dann das Boot wie auf einen Beat. Ich gehe davon aus, dass Sie den Rake gemäß Bootsplan mit einem Messstab oder Maßband eingestellt haben. Unser Ziel ist es, das Großsegel so einzustellen, dass die obere Latte parallel zur Mittellinie des Baums ist, indem das Achterstag und der Mastkolben eingestellt werden. Einmal eingerichtet, sollte es kaum Änderungsbedarf durch die Windbereiche geben, außer 1-mm-Tweaks am Achterstag. In einem kürzlichen Zoom-Meeting mit Brad Gibson für den Central Park MYG in den USA sprach Brad darüber, das Achterstag um plus oder minus 2 mm anzupassen. Ich weiß nicht, wie es Ihnen geht, aber in der Vergangenheit war ich etwas aggressiver im Umgang mit dem Achterstag. Jetzt verstehe ich mehr über die Präzision des Setups und weiß, was die Top-Jungs machen, ich bin vorsichtiger. Wenn Sie all dies getan haben, haben Sie mit etwas Glück ein perfekt aussehendes Rig, und wenn Sie die Wantenspannung nicht übertrieben haben, wird das Rig in den Böen für Sie arbeiten. Es gibt genügend Informationen über die Einrichtung des Riggs im Internet, sodass Sie die richtige Einstellung beim ersten Mal erreichen können und, was noch wichtiger ist, diese Einstellung jedes Mal neu erstellen, wenn Sie segeln. Hier sind einige Bilder, um die Auswirkungen von 1 mm Änderungen auf das Achterstag des B-Rigs zu zeigen. Von unten beginnen Beginnen Sie unten und arbeiten Sie den Bildersatz auf. Sie zeigen die in den Mast eingebaute Vorbiegung und dann den allmählichen Einfluss von bis zu 5 mm zusätzlicher Hinterstrebe. Den Effekt sieht man am besten an der Aufweichung der Lauge. Probieren Sie dies auf Ihrem eigenen Boot aus und sehen Sie, wie Ihr Rig aussieht. Ignorieren Sie die Einstellung des Focks, da das Achterliek zu eng ist und der Gabelbaum etwas nachgelassen werden könnte. Wenn ich das das nächste Mal versuche, werde ich die Kamera auf einem Stativ aufstellen, damit sich der Winkel zwischen den Bildern nicht ändert. Ich werde morgen ähnliche Aufnahmen für das A-Rig machen. Rig-Setup - Der Einfluss von 5 mm auf das A-Rig Nur ein kurzer Beitrag, um mein Herumspielen mit dem A-Rig und Gedanken zu Setups für verschiedene Wind- und Chop-Bedingungen zu reflektieren. Siehe die Fotos unten. Natürlich wird das Aussehen des Segels bei einer Brise etwas anders sein. Ein Rig-Setup mit 15 mm Fußtiefe und geradem Mast. Einrichtung für kabbeliges Wasser. Bei einer leichten Brise geht der Twist verloren, um über die Wellen zu beschleunigen Das Bild zeigt, wie sich beginnend mit einem geraden Mast die Auswirkungen von 5 mm auf die hintere Strebe eines A-Riggs auswirken. Über 10 mm Achterstag verursacht Segelverzerrung Next Section Weigh and check measure

Rennregeln und Taktiken „Lerne die Regeln wie ein Profi, damit du sie wie ein Künstler brechen kannst.“ - Pablo Picasso Was du wissen musst Aufgezeichnetes RYA Racing Rules-Seminar Änderungen in den neuen Rennregeln 2021-2024 Das Regelbuch und Fallstudien Komplette Rennregeln-Ressourcen für Teilnehmer, Kampfrichter und andere Rennoffizielle Teste Dein Wissen Die Details Wenn Sie planen, in diesem Sommer Rennen zu fahren, müssen Sie die Rennregeln zumindest rudimentär kennen. B. Backbord weicht nach Steuerbord, überholendes Boot hält sich frei, Bahnmarkenraum muss jedem innen überlappenden Boot innerhalb der Zone (4 Bootslängen von der Bahnmarke) und so weiter gegeben werden. Die Einhaltung der Regeln garantiert, dass Sie Ihre Mitbewerber nicht verärgern. Für ernsthafte Rennfahrer stellen die Regeln natürlich eine Chance dar und können genutzt werden, um sich taktische Vorteile zu verschaffen. ZB bei Annäherung an die Luvbahnmarke sollte die letzte Wende nach Steuerbord (unter der Annahme einer Backbordrundungsmarke) mindestens 2 Bootslängen außerhalb der Zone liegen. Auf diese Weise haben Sie Rechte an jedem Boot mit Backbordwende, das sich der Bahnmarke nähert und in der Zone wenden muss. Nach ihrer Wende haben sie keine Rechte und wenn Sie von Ihrem Kurs abweichen, werden sie bestraft. Wussten Sie, dass ein auf der Startlinie stehendes Boot zu einem Hindernis wird und Sie daher beim Umfahren des Hindernisses Wasser auf einem anderen Boot rufen können? Nur ein Beispiel für die Anwendung der Regeln des Regel-Quizbuchs des US-Segelverbandes. Sie tun gut daran, die Regeln zu Beginn, bei Hindernissen und bei Markierungen klar zu verstehen, da es viel zu gewinnen oder zu verlieren gibt, wenn Sie die Regeln zu Ihrem Vorteil manipulieren. Es ist auch ratsam, sich darüber im Klaren zu sein, wie Sie ankommen. Sie müssen klar und prägnant sein. Es gibt definierte Rufe in den Regeln, die Sie machen dürfen, z. B. 23 Raum zum Wenden, Protestruf (24 Proteste 06), Boot 98 außer Kontrolle und es gibt taktische Rufe, z Raum markieren. Ein letzter Punkt zum Hagel: Stellen Sie sicher, dass sie laut und deutlich sind, damit alle Ihre Konkurrenten hören können, wie sie sich möglicherweise entlang der Küste ausbreiten. Vollständige Rennregeln-Ressource für Teilnehmer, Kampfrichter und andere Rennoffizielle RacingRulesofsailing.org Das Regelbuch ist hier zusammen mit den Fallbüchern: https://www.rya.org.uk/racing/racing-rules/Pages/racing-rules-downloads.aspx Das World Sailing Callbook für Funksegeln Der Zweck dieses Buches besteht darin, den Teilnehmern und Rennoffiziellen genehmigte Auslegungen der Wettfahrtregeln beim Segeln nach RRS einschließlich Anhang E, Funk-Segel-Wettfahrtregeln, zur Verfügung zu stellen. https://www.sailing.org/documents/caseandcall/call_book_radio.php Hier sind die Links zum RYA Rules Seminar, das 2020 abgehalten wurde Einführung in die Rennregeln https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFCuwTuW200 Der Beginn https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KanGIVzhym0 Das luvwärts gerichtete Bein https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wyOx5TAahw4 Markiert Teil 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BzmP5BMkVgE Der Lauf https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQxeasGGr-s Markiert Teil 2 Meisterklasse https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMTYEgv8WjE Eine wirklich nützliche Seite für Modellyachtrennen von einem Senior-Juror von Sail Canada, die die Änderungen in den Rennregeln 2021-2024 und Bonusartikel einschließlich des Unterschieds zwischen Proper Course, Mark Room und Right of Way behandelt, finden Sie hier: https://sites.google.com/site/johnsrcsailingrulesandtactics/home Um Ihr Wissen in die Praxis umzusetzen, habe ich hier ein großartiges Spiel im Internet gefunden. Die Benutzeroberfläche ist etwas klobig, aber es wird Ihr Wissen herausfordern. http://game.finckh.net/indexe.htm Ein weiterer guter Wissenstest ist hier https://www.ussailing.org/competition/rules-officiating/dave-perrys-100-best-racing-rules-quizzes/ Schließlich https://www.rcgroups.com/sailboats-59/ . Ein Thread befasst sich mit Regeln (der vierte Thread von oben, als ich nachsah, angeführt von einem kanadischen lokalen Regelguru John Ball. Er war eine Weile kein Richter, aber ich glaube, er ist jetzt im IRSA-Regelkomitee und ist es normalerweise ziemlich gut Ein paar Mal springt der internationale Richter Gordon Davies ein.

The Project I have sailed an IOM for two years and think I am beginning to understand how the boats are fitted together and pimped for speed. My challenge with racing the IOM is dealing with speed in a breeze so a sensible solution to developing my skill was to buy a faster boat and get used to the speed as well as understand how another boat design work and could be optimised. In looking into the Marblehead designs, I note that the Grunge is the boat of choice but unfortunately there were none available when I looked. The were a few Starkers designs available built by Dave Creed which seemed to be a good platform to get me started and one in particular took my eye so I took the plunge and bought it. Over the autumn and winter this year, my plan is to optimise the boat. It has a standard A rig, B, C 1,2,3. The A is a standard swing rig and the others conventional. All will need re rigging as the cord is over four years old and whilst not used cannot be considered to be reliable. The next section looks at the jobs list on the new boat.

Wetter Was du wissen musst Vorhersagen sind wirklich nur für das Segeln auf offenem Wasser relevant. Der beste Teil einer Vorhersage für einen Teich mit Bäumen ist zu sehen, ob es regnen wird. Die Details Für Modellsegeln auf einem von Bäumen umgebenen Teich ist eine Vorhersage ziemlich irrelevant. Die Vorhersage könnte 25 Knoten Brise betragen, aber der Teich kann in den Böen nur maximal 15 Knoten erleben. Es ist viel besser, früh an den See zu kommen und zu beobachten, was vor sich geht, und vielleicht Ihr Boot aufs Wasser zu bringen, um die Bedingungen zu testen und sogar ein bisschen zu üben. Es ist nützlich zu wissen, ob der Wind im Laufe des Tages schwingen wird, zB während des Vorbeiziehens einer Front. Sie können möglicherweise eine Änderung der Windmuster auf dem Teich feststellen, wenn der Schwung beginnt. Eine Vorhersage von Regen oder Donner ist relevant, um geeignete Kleidung zu bestimmen. Viel relevanter ist eine Vorhersage für das Segeln einer Funkyacht auf offenem Wasser, zB West Kirby, Lincoln, Fleetwood oder auf dem Meer. Die prognostizierte Windgeschwindigkeit und -richtung wird wahr und Sie können auf der Rückseite Ihr Rigg fast auswählen und alle Änderungen im Laufe des Tages können vorhergesagt oder zumindest beobachtet und entsprechend reagiert werden. Ein billiges Anemometer kann auch helfen, wenn die Bedingungen zwischen den Bohrinseln grenzwertig sind (siehe Amazon). Natürlich haben Sie vorher relevante Daten gesammelt, damit Sie je nach Windgeschwindigkeit das richtige Rig auswählen können. Es gibt viele Wetter-Apps, Windy, Wind Guru, Weather Pro, Met Office. Persönlich finde ich Windy sehr nützlich, aber am besten fragen Sie, was die Einheimischen als App verwenden, die für Ihren Standort am relevantesten sein sollte. Zusammenfassend Die Kenntnis der Windvorhersage ist auf offenem Wasser relevant, aber auf einem Teich sind Beobachtungen und Tests die einzige Möglichkeit, die Bedingungen zu bestimmen. Links Windig Windmesser Lesen Sie die beste positive Bewertung .

Racing results 2023 Events Schedule IOM Hampton Court Charity 1st Lincoln District 2nd to Darin Ballington Chipstead District 3rd to Peter Stollery and Craig Richards Bourneville District Did not attend due to virus Poole District 2nd to Craig Richards Manor Park District 2nd to Chris Harris Birkenhead Veterans 1st Watermead District Cancelled due to lack of entries Coalhouse Fort Open Postponned due to too much water Huntingdon Open 3rd to Colin Goodman and Darin Ballington Poole Open 1st (tied on points with Tony Edwards but better discard) Lincoln Ranking 5th Saturday and 4th on Sunday Chipstead Open 1st Keighley Ranking 4th Saturday, 2nd Sunday Chris Harris won both Fleetwood Nationals 6th Frensham Open 1st. Clean sheet of results Spain Europeans 23rd Woodspring Ranking 4th and 6th Emsworth Open 2nd Eastbourne Open 2nd to Dorian Crease in Cheinz Marblehead Chipstead GAMES 1 1st Gust of 25 knots. Three rivers GAMES 8th Suffered from slipping main leech tension fitting Frensham Open In bed with flu Lincoln Ranking Recovering from flu Guildford GAMES 2nd to James Hadden in Up Guildford GAMES 1st Datchet Ranking 6th Datchet Ranking 11th plagued with winch problems Keighley Nationals 6th. Getting to grips with new boat Three rivers GAMES Cancelled Datchet Ranking DF95 Manor Park TT 2nd to Craig Richards Poole Nationals Retired after leading on day 1 2022 Results IOM Manor Park 2nd (winner Darin Ballington) Chipstead 4th (Winner Peter Stollery) Hampton Court 3rd (winner Darin Ballington, 2nd Peter Stollery) Poole 3rd to Craig Richards and Tony Edwards Nationals 24th Chipstead Joint 1st on points but lost on count back to Dave Green Veterans 2nd to winner Tony Edwards Eastbourne 2nd to winner Ken Binks 2 Islands 4th to winner Rob Wilson Poole Ranking 4th and 7th. Tony Edwards won day one and Craig Richards day 2. W Kirby Ranking 12th and 8th Most of the Northern team were on the water. Chelmsford 2nd to Colin Goodman Emsworth 1st Manor Pk Rank 7th and 13th. Most the top UK sailors racing. Winner - Peter Stollery Eastbourne 2nd to Dave Allinson Chipstead 1st. Masterclass `Met and Southern District championships 1st 2021 Results Chipstead 15th Alternative A day to forget Veterans 15th Alternative Bourneville 1st Britpop (Midland regional champs) Nationals 37th out of 76 - that what happen when you are last off the line in most of the starts. Ranking 3 19th Ranking 4 3rd Frensham open 1st Ranking 5 21st 3 hours sleep in the camper the night before Ranking 6 23rd Only finished 4 out of 9 races due to broken shroud Eastbourne 2nd to Dave Allinson Chipstead 1st (Metropolitan and southern regional champs) Current UK ranking 21. Room for improvement.

Vor einer Veranstaltung Bestimmen Sie, was Ihr Ziel beim Segeln ist Kenne dein Rennregeln und Taktiken Verwalten Sie Ihre Investition mit der sorgfältigen Bootswartung Mit dem Rechten schnell segeln Bootstuning und Setup Kennen Sie Ihre Funksteuerungen Wirksam Bootspraxis Stellen Sie eine konsistente Einrichtung sicher mit Checklisten Wissen Sie, wie die Das Wetter wird dir helfen Sinnvoll Verweise

Tuning eines IOM (in keiner bestimmten Reihenfolge) Brad Gibson Zoom-Meeting Central Park Model Yacht Club Jib Pivot-Tutorial Segelboot RC Kantuns Blatt- und RC-Konfiguration Segelboot RC Bau einer Anlage BG Segel und Design BG Sails Rig-Tuning-Anleitung BG Segel und Design Zvonko Jelacic Kantun 2 Anleitung Segelboot RC So richten Sie Ihr Rig ein Ian Vickers Häufig gestellte Fragen Segelsetc Rigging-Paket Segelsetc Aufbau eines Rigs Peter Sutton Dell Quay US-Tuning von IOM Anacortes funkgesteuerte Segler Segeltrimmen Roger Stollery Machen ein Draht-Bowsie Roger Stollery Burgee Roger Stollery Technische Infos zu Modellyachten Lester Gilbert Ein Rig herstellen Lester Gilbert Tuning-Tipps JG Segel Baue ein IOM-Rig JG Segel Rig-Setup Frank Russell Design Rubiks Rig-Setup und -Tuning John Taylor, Taylor Made Yachts Wie man einen Shiraz . stimmt John Taylor, Taylor Made Yachts Vorbeugende Diskussion IOM-Forum Ein Rig herstellen Lester Gilbert Rig-Tuning Seattle IOM-Update John Ball CYRA Markierungsrundung in Luv Seattle IOM-Update John Ball Klicke hier Für weitere interessante Seattle IOM Updates Interview mit Brad Gibson Seattle IOM-Update. Scrollen Sie nach unten für das Interview 2012

Building an IOM. (Click on a heading) Introduction and cost Acquire the plan Build the plug First Alternative Build The Optimised Alternative build Build the rigs Add the sails Weigh and check measure The end result

Craig Richards Tuning guide (Page 2) A Rig forestay tension: The A rig is the only suite where I change forestay tension. The rest have the forestay as tight as I can get it until I start worrying about breaking the boat or having the mast go out of column. You never want the forestay to pump or flog upwind, so for each increasing wind condition you go just a bit tighter so that you get a bit of sag, but no pumping. At the very top of A, the tighter the better and do not let it sag. The sag and a loose jib cunnigham seem to put a bit more fullness into the front of the jib and with very sensitive telltales you can see that the fuller the jib entry the longer the flow seems to stay attached to the leeward side of the jib. This is particularly helpful in very dirty air with lots of wind switches etc. The forestay length on my boat varies from 1138 to 1132mm from the lightest to strongest conditions. My go to setting when I am unsure turns out to be 1135 just as the rigging guide suggests. It will also depend on how much your backstay stretches, I use the below on my backstay: As Per Krabbe has kindly pointed out, dyneema lines are prone to shrinking. I have marks to quickly put the rigs into the boat (last minute change before heat etc), which I do check before each regatta, but over a few days the lines may still change length. I have a fairly good feeling now for what the rig should look like, but it's probably a good idea to check the lengths regularly. This is how I set up my main sheeting angle on the A rig: I put the palm of my hand against the aft quarter of the boat and when sighting from astern I have my fingers parallel to the backstay. With my hand in this position the main boom just touches my fingers. No measurments, no confusion and very easy to repeat. Yes it's wider than just about every tuning guide suggests, but at this point I am just setting up consistent sheeting angles of the main and jib (to follow in next post) With the main sheeting angle set, the jib is then trimmed such that the hole in back of the jib boom fitting is over the first knuckle on the deck. It's close to 60mm between the middle of the mast and the inner edge of the boom. In my case its also exactly the width of my three middle fingers. I posted some pictures Sue Brown took, but the posts seem to have disappeared. I seem to have put the link on my main profile and not this group ..lol. http://www.flickr.com/.../in/album-72177720308506905/... I do sail with the setting I posted. Here is my go fast mode: I run 20mm foot depths on the main and jib as a starting point. In this mode I want the boat to run with absolutely neutral helm. It can hunt the breeze slightly, but must never luff up and slow down. I never want to be pulling the bow down with the rudder. I may trim in and and push the bow up. This is absolutely the best VMG mode in the absence of other boats. You will go faster and end up higher than a boat that sails only in pinch mode. I use the bottom draft strip a lot. I want to see the maximum depth at 50% and a clean straight entry after the mast. If the fullness is further forward I flatten the foot of the mainsail further If the boat is running with a bit of weather helm as the breeze increases I will first flatten the main off to about 10mm and if that does not work I will change the trim to let the main out slightly further, but leave the jib the same. I will also flatten the jib down to 10mm at the very top end of A, but only after the main is already down to 10mm. The neutral helm also has the advantage that when I am unsighted and cant see the boat it is still sailing flat out without my input. This is also a big advantage when the boat is too far away to see clearly. That lower tell tale on the main is a great trim indicator. It should fly at a slight up angle on the weather side of about 20 degrees. In this photo it says I am sailing a fraction lower than optimum and I should push the boat up with the rudder. The neutral helm has one further huge advantage. As I tack, once I am on the new heading I seldom need to keep on some weather helm until the boat gets its speed up again and starts tracking. The boat also tacks much more cleanly as a result and I stall less when I make a mistake. I.e. its much easier to get the boat going again from a bad tack. And a great picture of John. He sheets the main in a bit more than I do, but the jib is still quite wide. This is probably his pinch mode though and if he dropped the main slightly so the jib is over the deck knuckle we would be quite close in setup. One difference is that the entry angle on the main on Johns boat at the first draft stripe is a bit wider than mine, so he would need to sheet a bit closer. My entry looks a lot flatter, so I can sheet the boom out a bit and still have a similar entry angle. This could be because I have a bit more mast bend coupled with less luff curve. I actively set my mast bend so that the luff at this height moves behind the mast. I.e. the luff sits on the centre line, not to leeward of the mast. Notice how flat he now runs his main foot depth. I was running 20mm, but John looks to be even flatter. It's also a great picture for showing the twist in the sails and a perfect example of how the twist in the jib parallels the back of the main. Active trim: My high mode has the jib width at 45-50mm, about 1cm - 1,5cm in from my best VMG mode. I have the ratchet set for the mainsail trim on my radio. I Move the trim/throttle stick on the radio so that it is two ratchet clicks up. This is the radio setting that I want to see my VMG sail setting at. I use the subtrim buttons on my radio to move the sails to that setting. With the trim all the way in I now want the jib to be at 50mm or perhaps even 45mm in very flat water. Depending on the radio, two clicks may move the trim in more than the desired 1-1.5cm so you would need to change your throttle curve. The radio I used at Fleetwood did not need it, but my newer radio moves the sheet too far and I have set a throttle curve. If there are boats around me and I need height, I will start with the boat at two clicks out and then once it up at full speed, I start to bleed the boat up as I trim in. Often you can carry a high fast mode for a length of time, but if I hit a bad wave or header and the boat slows then its immediately trim to the two clicks position, get the speed back and then work the boat up again one or two clicks. If I am in clear air and chasing then I found the boat very fast at two clicks out and did not trim in much The higher trim mode is also very useful if you get THAT boat below you that is racing only you and the fleet disappears into the distance whilst they try and luff the heck out of you. Your race is still toast, but at least it does give you some time to find a gap to tack away in. If you do have some space to leeward, then even with the wider trim you may be pleasantly surprised to see that you don't lose height and will roll over them quite quickly. I'll try and do a bit on twist, but here is a hint that I do not have enough twist in the top of my jib. Camber stripes are your friend. The bottom windward telltale is running at the angle I like, but the top one suggests I have mucked up the trim. It should match the bottom as closely as possible. Mains twist. Finicky beast. Half a turn on the vang can make a surprising difference. I can only suggest a starting point and then fiddle with small changes until the boat looks and behaves to your preferences. Looking at the boat from behind when the boat is on the water and using the picture of John's boat as a template would be a good start. Looking down the backstay from behind the boat, I want the main leech to parallel the backstay between the top two battens. It was difficult to take a photo, but fairly obvious in real life Jib Twist. I like the jib leech to parallel the back of the main for as far as possible. The upper third of the jib should also parallel the main entry angle as far as possible. Top of jib and upper third of main should start to luff at the same time as you head up into the wind. Earlier I posted a near perfect picture of John Tushingham and now I hope he forgives me for posting one a bit more ugly This was taken a month before the Globals and I think I had an edge on boat speed in this race. I never saw his boat look like this in the Globals and want to use this to point out how top sailors like him are prepared to adapt and experiment. In this photo we have similar rake, but I am running a more bent mast, with flatter sails. A much finer entry for the main as a result, which should result in a cleaner and wider slot between the back of the main and the jib. The difference in speed was very small, but even a cm or two of extra speed helps get your nose out in a crowded start and makes you look like a better sailor. Compare this to his globals setup B-Rig Quick reminder that these are my settings and opinions and are not the only way to do things. I was not very fond of the B-rig, but took the opportunity to go out and sail whenever there was enough wind in the evenings. After a few sessions of just buggering around with silly settings I started to really enjoy these sessions as the B-rig has such brilliant contrast between just sailing and sailing fast and once you found the faster settings the boat itself became increasingly easier to sail. I went into the first B-rig race at the Globals not knowing if I had got it right as I have had nobody to sail against. In short it was a very pleasant surprise and I had speed to burn. As the regatta wore on I made a few mistakes (getting off the lee shore etc) and started to second guess myself and changed the setting to trim a bit narrower, which was a mistake in retrospect, but I was not too stessed as I could still hang in for a top 3 in most races. The fastest boat was probably sail number 121. A bit inconsistent, but when he got it right had a definite edge towards the end of the regatta. There could be some advantage to the icarex sail material in these conditions, but if anything this boat was sheeting the jib wider than I do when it was flying. If you set the B-rig up anything like the A, the first thing you will most likely notice is lee helm and the first attempt to fix this would be to pull the main up to the centreline. It does balance the boat, but the groove becomes very narrow and it's hard to keep the boat going fast and tacking can become a bit harder. What worked for me was. As much aft rake as possible to take out some of the lee helm. I wanted the flattest entry angle possible with the maximum camber back at 50% in the lower third. So I bent the mast to take out all the luff curve. All 5mm of it. The tightest forestay possible, just short of breaking the boat. It makes the boat easier to tack and also takes shape out of the jib keeping the entry flatter. I wanted the widest main I could get away with and to keep things consistent I start with the main boom against the palm of my hand when my fingers are parallel to the backstay as normal. Most of the other boats do sheet a bit closer. Good, I feel I am faster. With the main boom in this position the jib boom is now over the side of the boat. 65-70mm between the mast and jib boom. I do have a 'point' mode where the jib may come in to 55-60mm, which could be used off the start line, but once clear I am sheeting out again. The jib is flat, 10mm-15 mm foot depth. The jib twist is still parallel to the back of the main, but you can twist it off a bit more at the very top of B rig conditions. The main is flat. I run 15mm, but JohnT is even flatter at 10mm or less. There is a fair amount of twist in the main, which you can get away with as with the luff curve taken out by the bent mast the slot is already very wide. The more twist you have, the faster the boat, but the limit is when the top third starts to backwind. I start with the main twist setting as follows. With the main at the VMG setting, sighting up the backstay a line drawn through the bottom two mainsail battens is parallel to the backstay. Run out of time. Will add a bit more later In the meanwhile here is a nice picture of John, over the start line , but a nice example of a fast setup B rig Sheeting Angle: More detail to follow, but its wider than you think. Three fingers will no longer do the trick. B rig: Backstay and mast: Bend that baby. Luff curve matches back of mast the entire length. Standard or 'stock' luff curve. Flat sails. Jib down at less than 15mm foot depth. I run 15mm on the main. JohnT was flatter. B-rig: More mast curve: B-Rig Main twist: Phone camera perspective mucks thing up, but a line through the ends of the bottom two battens is parallel to the backstay B-rig: Mast Curve

The DF 95 Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of DF 95. I launch a new boat on 14/6/23 and sailed in my first TT event the following Sunday. With the Tips from Richard Calas at Emsworth and Craig Richards from his facebook posts I was able to be competitive from the start. There is no point reinventing the wheel so rather than post ideas on setup, I start with Craig's wonderful series of articles on facebook on how to set your boat up and then I will add my own observations. The DF95 is a great one design boat and I have no regrets moving into the class. It is a delight to sail and the only way you will get more speed than someone else is by achieving a better setup or sailing better. What more can you want. Starting with the build I was given some helpful advice: It is worth applying Epoxy all deck eyes. Unscrew, apply a tiny amount of epoxy and re-screw to seal all the deck fittings. Use epoxy when assembling the booms to give time to align the components. I upgraded to the newer brushless rudder servo as I thought the upgrade would be more reliable when centering the rudder. A lesson I learned on the IOM I bought 3 1000mAh life batteries from rc yachts as they were the cheapest supplier I chopped the top of the on/off switch as when I turned to port the electrics neatly switched off as the servo arm hit the on off switch. I bent the wire connector between the rudder servo and the tiller ever so slightly, so it did not catch on the deck hatch housing as this was straining the servo. I counter sunk the servo tray screws so the hatch sat neatly in its housing I threaded cord through the bung and added a restrainer to stop it coming out. This way I could empty the boat without ever losing the bung. I drilled a second hole on the A rig can for the mainsail fastening, 5 mm aft of the supplied hole Left the top sail tie loose on the A rig so sail flops nicely from side to side. I used fine cord to tie the sails to the mast. Every knot is secured with super glue. The assembly instructions are spot on although they only cover the A rig and could add a few comments about the B_D rigs.. Whilst the specs on the DF web site were good for the mast and boom. it took me a while to figure where do you attach the jib tacks and jib sheet eyes. Put a bigger knot on the topping lift inside boom. Be very careful with the jib wire terminals on the jibs. I have already had one ferrule that slipped. On my IOM, I terminate the wire by bending the wire using a Dupro tool. Might do that in the long term on the DF. Put thick lines on the sails so you can see if you are pointing to high or have a backwinding mainsail. These are all simple tasks which I hope will improve the longevity of the boat or make it more efficient. With no boat speed advantage to be had it is all about the sailing, much of which I cover in racing an IOM. Whilst the tuning details are specific to the IOM, the rest applies to any class. Maybe the heading should be Racing a radio controlled yacht. Taking on board the advice I was given, led to a 2nd in the first TT event at Manor Park splitting John Tushingham and Craig Richards. This is the only warm up prior to the nationals. The blog tells the story and learnings from the event.

Working up the Alioth. Boat 2 First of all thank you to all those who have bought a coffee to support the web site for the long term future. This is not a commercial site and I make no profit from it but I do need support to ensure its longevity. People tell me that it is a great source of information and the only site of its kind, so if you do enjoy it and get value from it why not pop over to Buymeacoffee . It takes any currency. If you do thank you. If 10% of the 5000 plus visitors bought 1 coffee, I could do so much more with the site This is a story about going backwards to go forwards. Move from a well set up boat to one that had to be developed and optimised. I am not a designer so some of the steps could be seen as labourious but every stage was tested and each change offered improvement. Spoiler alert, the story is still ongoing. None of this would have been possible without the help of Paul Barton. He is probably one of the most experienced 3d printers of the Alioth in the UK and is a brilliant ideas man. Of course we would not be doing this had it not been for the creative thinking of Juan Egea. Not only has he come up with a great design but opened the door for home building once again and allowed IOM’s to become freely available to new owners (for a reasonable licence fee of course). At the MYA AGM last year, I had a chance to buy an Alioth. It was a completely standard boat, sprayed with clearcoat but un sanded, with an old Alioth fin and bulb. I thought what better way to rest the Britpop than to buy the Alioth and sail it over the winter with the Britpop rigs. When I started to sail it, I was hooked on the design but my boat setup had some issues. I sailed a bit with Craig Richards but he was months ahead of me and truth be told a better sailor. My boat needed to sail with the rigs at zero degrees rake for balance which meant the booms pointed upward and it all looked rather ugly. Having the boom band 150mm from the step meant the boom was too high. I also had a poor A rig with prebend that occurred mostly around the 600mm mark, more of a kink than a bend which was created with rollers. The end result was a poor performing boat. The first thing to do was to rake the fin aft 2 degrees so I could put some rake on the mast. Unfortunately this moves the bulb back over a centimetre so the transom dropped in the water. Then I lowered the boom band to just off the foredeck above the mast ram. I had to the rakethe fin a degree forward to get the fore and aft balance better and that resulted in weather helm which to be frank was slow. With the Britpop it was easy to power off upwind and drive hard. With my set up I had the opposite and every time I took my eye off the boat it slowed. Craig had moved his fin aft so he could rake the rigs and achieved a balanced boat and was quick from the start with his V3. Eventually after struggling at the the ranking event at Eastbourne, I bit the bullet and moved the fin leading edge rake to a full 2.5 degrees (the aft edge was dead perpendicular to the waterline and then I moved the bulb forward 1.5cm to achieve balance and keep the stern just out of the water. I was then able to test the following week and had a balanced boat with the bow and stern just out of the water. To measure things accurately (see the instruction at the bottom of the article), all you need is paper, pen and a right angled set square. Once you have the dimensions, it is easy to replicate on a new boat. The boat came with under deck sheeting which gave me some issues, tangles and restricted range of movement which took a while to sort. Since trying it out I would prefer on deck sheeting in another boat as you can see any wear on the sheet and quickly repair any fraying cord. Having sorted all of this I ended up with a boat on weight but a bulb 25gm lighter than my Britpop. So after 6 months I got the boat set up that I wanted it. Remember I am not a designer and have to work by trial and error. I also get nervous about moving things around although my confidence is building on this as my knowledge builds. In a way it is good to fiddle as you learn on the journey whereas sailing a setup boat with instruction is quick but ones learning is limited. So what to do next. We heard a rumour that Juan was going to release a file for a 2 piece boat which would make it lighter and stronger. After some gentle persuasion we got the file and printed the boat which I could put together just before the nationals. I wanted a Craig Smith fin which is the lightest available and a Robot bulb. I could not fit a Smith fin to the current boat as I had glued the fin insert for the Alioth fin into the fin box but it would fit nicely in the new boat with a customised insert and this would allow us to vary the rake from zero to 2 degrees. The only thing we lacked was time. Putting an untested boat on the water 3 days before the Nationals was fraught with risk and so it proved. Other things we did to the new boat were to fit on deck sheeting, put the pulley in the centre at the back of the boat to minimise drag in the water, move the shroud base in a few mm as the eyes had the potential to damage other boats when healed over and it would not hurt to bring the shroud base in a bit. As a consequence I shortened the spreaders on the A and B rig and modified the jib tack fitting on the boom so I can get the jibs booms as close to the deck as possible. Then it was a case of going over the boat and minimising windage as far as possible. There was a structural change. After Juan had cracked his boat near the shroud area having been hit by a Venti without a bow bumper at an event earlier this year, Paul changed the aluminium posts that provided triangulation strength at the mast and shroud area replacing them with wires so that if there was impact in this area, the boat could flex and not split although the Polymax is extremely robust. I have hit a piece hard with a hammer and seen no damage or even a mark for that matter. It was a race against time especially as we had a couple of issues with the gluing. While Paul was sorting the boat I went through my rigs and did everything I could to and make sure the setup was good. New Cunningham design, lower the bottle screws, get the booms as parallel to the deck as possible. One mistake I made was to try 80lb fishing line to attach the jib luff to the mast. Unfortunately, the bowsie kept slipping the day before the Nationals so I went back to my trusty thicker cord. I had put the same on the backstay and had to replace that as well. One of the challenges I had was running the sheeting system under the deck using PTFE tube bent through 180 degrees. The winch could not handle the friction but then it was suggested I apply silicon grease to the cord and that solved the problem. So I picked up the boat on the Saturday before the Nationals, with the biggest job, fitting the fin and bulb in the afternoon but I had my map/diagram laid out on the floor with the optimal positions from the previous boat so I could position the fin and bulb accurately knowing the boat would be balanced and with the fore and aft weight distribution correct. What I did not realise at the time was that the bulb cant to the waterline was at 2 degrees when hand fitted but when I secured it with the nut the bulb cant increases to nearly 4 degrees. I only realised this after the nationals. One little check would have shown me the issue with the bulb. One thing I was able to do was accurately measure the bottom of the bulb in relation to the waterline and calculated I would have a 2 mm gap in the tank. The on-deck sheeting was a pleasure to set up and worked well although the way I had set the winch up meant that you had to move the stick a long way to ease the sheet making precise adjustment upwind difficult. Also the mix for a high mode was not working properly. I did not have time to fix that. I did drop the shroud bottle screws to the deck to get them out of the slot and that meant fitting longer shrouds Also checked the mast was a firm fit where it entered hull at the deck and happy to say it is rock solid. One final tweak was to the transmitter rudder control. I have a habit of over steering just after the start so I have introduced 20% of exponential to the steering. I had a quick test sail on Monday to check the sailing balance and that the boat sat in the water correctly. The transom was just out of the water and the bow 25mm out. I had 200gm of correctors to play with which I would position when the boat was measured. The boat was measured in Gosport on the Tuesday. It was exactly 1m long and the bulb 2mm above the limit and the rudder just inside the perpendicular from the transom. I had got something right. We had time to precisely locate the corrector weights. Wednesday was spent practice sailing at Frensham and then Thursday I raced at Gosport. That is when I got concerned about speed. The boat was just not powering off the start line. Yes it was shifty but I was getting rolled by boats around me. Not much I could do but live with it and take it to the Nationals. On the Friday at Poole there was a decent breeze and this is where I learnt that 8mm was not enough prebend in the mast. The jib luff sagged, the leach opened too much and the result was a boat slightly off the pace. I could have increased the prebend for the weekend but if I snapped the mast I would be off home. Thankfully the forecast was for light winds. The first day of the nationals was difficult (a polite way of saying bloody frustrating). After the seeding race I was put in C heat and progressed to B the A and stayed in A for two more races. The things unfolded. I was demoted to B then C and took 3 attempts to get out of C and then two attempts to get from B back to A where I stayed for the rest of the regatta. In summary, I was getting great starts but lacked pace and dropped back into the fleet but once back in A fleet after my excursions was always able to find a way to stay there. The result from the Nationals was not what I wanted but I was going through a commissioning process, so 14th is OK. The boat was not as quick as I would like, and I was able to nail down the reasons why and quickly fix on Tuesday. So, what was the list of things to do after the Nationals On mast bend, 8mm of prebend proved to be too little to support a firm jib luff and leech when sailing upwind. I wanted to use the same mast but with more prebend without using my rollers. I have found with the rollers that you have to get the roller settings to a certain point before the mast bends permanently. It is very easy to get hard spots, so I thought it time to bend the mast by hand. Surprisingly it is not that difficult to achieve a smooth bend by bending the mast carefully around my middle. So my 8mm turned to 15mm over 600mm and I put a gentle reverse bend into the whole mast. Only a few mm. The result when rerigged was stunning. Complete control on the jib leech and the ability to set any bend I liked and no hard spots on the mast. I will not be using rollers again. I also discovered the bulb cant was nearly 4 degrees rather than the two I thought I had. I took the bolt off, and the hand fitted bulb was 2 degrees but what I had not realised was there was a high spot in the slot on the bulb and when the bolt was tightened the bulb rocked and increased the cant. I also need to increase the weight of the bulb by 15gms. There is a hole in the slot which I can fill with lead shot so should be able to get the bulb and fin to full weight. I fiddled and reprogrammed the winch, so I was able to have full control sheeting when sailing upwind. That also restored the mixing which gives me high mode. I will put a blog up on that later. Those three things alone will surely increase the performance of the boat. All this done, I am ready to test the improvements. The journey continues. 5 months to the worlds. How to measure fin and bulb position (see picture below) After a ranking event where the weather helm caused me issues, I ended up raking the fin 2.5 degrees and moved the bulb just over a centimetre forward. This required careful trimming of the slot in the bulb but with a Dremel you can do a neat job but how to get the bulb in the right place Take 2 A2 sheets of drawing paper and tape them together along the shortest edge. Lie this on a wooden floor and place the boat on it. Use the top side as the waterline. The bulb draft limit is 3mm below the bottom or the A2 sheet. Using a right-angle triangle or T square, put a mark on the water line of the boat at the bow at the point where the designer says the bow should kiss the water. Align the boats water line with the top edge of the paper marking the exact bow and stern position. If you do this right, you will be able to move the boat and relocate with precision. Once you have the waterline established, raise the fin so it is parallel to the floor (3 dvd boxes should do it) and recheck the boats position. Also it is worth checking at this stage that the boat is 1m long. Once the boat is in position, you can mark the four corners of the fin, then mark the tip and back point of the bulb so you can measure the cant. Each point is marked on the paper using the adjustable right-angled triangle which also allows me to measure precise angles. This Alioth design requires the bottom of the leading edge to be a certain distance from the bow by drawing that line with the fin in that position and marking the front point of the bulb is, I had my starting point for the bulb position. I then marked where the centre of gravity of the bulb should be so I can line up the C of G of my new bulb in the same place with a raked fin. When I changed to a bulb with a different length, I was able to position its centre of gravity with ease.